Assyrtiko: learn to say it, spell it, sip it, love it

 Santorini grape variety is a fine candidate for Greece's emblematic wine

Stefanos Georgas of Argyros Estate shows off the unique way the assyrtiko vines grow, like a bird’s nest, on the volcanic island of Santorini.
MONTREAL - It seems that Quebec wine lovers are finally catching on. After trumpeting Greek wines for years, I’m ecstatic to see that the SAQ is starting to stock more and more of what I believe are some of the wine world’s most unique and fairly priced wines. Since 2010, annual sales of Greek wine in Quebec have risen from $7 million to more than $9 million. There is still a ways to go, but it’s a start.

When I speak with wine lovers about Greek wines, the comment I usually get is either they have never tried one, or they ask me about the pine resin-infused wine called retsina. I love a good retsina and will talk about that next week. But I agree that it is one of those “love it or hate it” wines. And since much of what’s imported to Quebec isn’t all that good, most hate it.

Unfortunately, the growth of Greek wine still seems to be held hostage by this prejudice that it is predominately retsina. In many ways, retsina is Greece’s Beaujolais Nouveau — known by many, loved by few.

But the tapestry that is Greek wine is filled with a number of interesting indigenous grapes and — most importantly — a long history of growing them. Grape growing and winemaking in Greece are not measured in decades, or even centuries. We’re talking thousands of years.

Many of the grape and appellation names might seem very new. Some of them are admittedly difficult to pronounce, which might be another reason why Greece has flown under the radar for so long. But remaining faithful to their native grapes is one of the primary reasons why these wines are so good.

The case for assyrtiko

So I think that Greece needs a new emblematic grape, a wine style that is an easy story to tell, that will lead the charge into new markets — the equivalent of what sauvignon blanc has done for New Zealand. A wine that is unique, not too expensive and, of course, tasty.

While there are a couple of worthy contenders, to me it’s an easy choice. The grape is assyrtiko. It is grown in a number of Greek regions, but if there is one place where it is truly exceptional, it’s on the island of Santorini.

“If you are going to study terroir, then this is the place,” remarked Stefanos Georgas as we walked among some assyrtiko “old vines” at Argyros Estate.

“Old vines” is a relative term. Here in Canada, an “old vine” might have been planted 20 or 30 years ago. In Burgundy, 40 to 50 years is generally considered the beginning of old age. But on Santorini, it’s not hard to find vines over 200 years old. Some are even closing in on 500.

And it’s more than just the vines that are old. Winemaking on the island dates back to 1000 BC. If terroir is truly defined by the long relationship between a grape variety, a land, a climate and a people, then Georgas was right. In my many years of travels, I have never come across such an enduring history between a place and a grape.

So what happens after 3,000 years of growing the same grapes? The answer is that certain adaptations are pretty unique. On the island, the most striking effect is the way that the vines grow.

Spend a few days there and you will notice that the wind never stops blowing. Clouds are rare as well. With the hot sun beating down and little rain, these are not ideal growing conditions for a white grape.

The response to this is one of the most peculiar forms of grape growing that I have ever seen. The vines’ canes are coiled next to the ground, much like a bird’s nest. The grape bunches grow inside, shielded from the wind and behind the leaves to escape the sun.

For those of you who have tried assyrtiko, you know it’s a wine that is on the fresher side of the continuum. I guess sauvignon blanc might be comparable, but assyrtiko is decidedly more mineral and much less aromatic. One would normally not expect this type of white wine in such a hot climate. For why it works, one only needs to look at the soils.

Santorini is a volcanic island — and while there hasn’t been a massive eruption for a while, there is still activity today. One benefit from this, according to Georgas, is that sulphur — which is used by winemakers to prevent disease on vines — is blown by the wind onto the vines.

But the real benefit is that these volcanic soils are very lean, which keeps the assyrtiko vines struggling for nutrients and slows down the ripening, which helps maintain the grape’s acidity.

The black soils, a mix of volcanic sand and basalt, make for very mineral wines. The other soils are a mix of volcanic ash and a lightweight volcanic rock called pumice; it looks similar to a fire pit filled with ash after a campfire. Here, the wines show more texture and fresher fruit notes. The pumice absorbs humidity during the night and gives it back up to the vine during the day.

The synergy is exceptional. However, there is one more very important thing that makes Santorini unique. Because it is an island, and with such sandy soil, it was saved from the ravages of phylloxera — that little aphid which has destroyed and continues to attack vineyards worldwide.

The solution was to graft European vines onto special phylloxera-resistant roots, so there are very few vines out there in the world which are still “pure.” On Santorini, they are the guardians of this grape variety.

Ultimately, it comes down to how the wines taste. I can honestly say that it is rare that I taste an assyrtiko that I don’t like. I asked Georgas, “What is assyrtiko?”

He replied that in the first year after bottling, it’s tightly wound, with notes of white peach and citrus. Then, after a year or two, the soil should start to show. He means that the minerality will begin to dominate the wine.

That’s dead-on. I would add that it is a worthy member of the great terroirs of the world — where a grape, soil and a culture have come together to make something great.

That’s a very easy and worthwhile story to tell.

Disclaimer: My recent trip to Greece was paid for by the Greek Ministry of Agriculture, the European Union and by the group of wineries we visited. None of the participating wineries reviewed this article prior to its publication.

Four enjoyable assyrtiko wines worth looking for

While we are starting to see more assyrtiko at the SAQ, quantities are still limited, so you will have to hunt around for the following bottles. I will let you know when new vintages arrive of some of my favourites.

For now, here are three assyrtiko wines from Santorini and one, the last wine, from northern Greece.
Cyclades IGP 2012, Atlantis, Argyros, Greece white, $17.25, SAQ #11097477. From the Greek island of Santorini comes this assyrtiko-based "wunder-white." Drivingly mineral, but with so much fruit — it's a fruit salad with volcanic rock dressing. Crisp, balanced, with just enough mid-palate richness to give it some oomph. What more can you ask for? Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, grilled squid, mussels.

Santorini 2011, Assyrtiko, Argyros, Greece white, $20.95, SAQ #11639344. Lemony fresh at first, then fattens up slightly in the mid-palate, finishing with a hint of graphite. This is textbook assyrtiko, just enough of everything. Very finessed wine with amazing energy. Serve at 8 C. Drink now-2018. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, grilled shrimp basted with spicy mango sauce.

Santorini 2012, Thalassitis, Gaia Wines, Greece white, $22.25, SAQ #11966695. Richer than the Argyros, perhaps because it is 2012 and a touch warmer vintage. Fruit moves toward grapefruit, and with a honeyed note on the aromatics. Simple for now, next year the minerality should show more. Serve at 8 C. Drink now-2018. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, mussels, white fish.

Vin de Pays D'Epanomi 2012, Domaine Gerovassiliou, Greece white, $19.85, SAQ #10249061. From northeastern Greece, so a different take on the grape. White grapefruit and lemons with the aromatic kick of oranges and nectarine. Imagine a blend of sauvignon blanc with just a hint of muscat, but the grapes here are assyrtiko with a small percentage of another indigenous grape, malagousia. Serve at 6-8 C. Drink now-2015. Food-pairing idea: Greek salad, feta cheese, most richer fish dishes.